The picture above is a perfect representation of North Berwick. At every corner, this historic links is a quirky, entertaining, and flat out FUN round of golf. If you don't enjoy golf at North Berwick, you simply do not like links golf.
Muirfield (#11 in the world) is just down the coast to the west and gets much of the attention from international visitors due to its lofty world ranking - and being on the Open rotation. In my opinion, Muirfield is one of - if not the - finest tests of links golf in the world. However, if you cannot get onto Muirfield, do not skip the journey to East Lothian. North Berwick is situated on a fantastic piece of linksland along the North Sea about an hour east of Edinburgh. Simply said, North Berwick is quintessential links golf; windy, exposed, firm, fast, and possesses a wide variety of holes.
Onto the golf now. The front nine meanders its way "out" in true links fashion with some quirky and unique holes. Stone fences in play, blind approach shots, there is definitely nothing "boring" about this golf course. In my opinion, the course really starts to get fun at the 13th - pictured at the top of this entry. At 13, you have to cross a rock fence with your approach to the green that is nestled between the rock fence and the sea. And yes, the rock fence is in play, no free drop here. The 14th green is a completely blind approach to a green sunken down by the water and thus requiring a pin that is about 30 feet tall. The 15th is the world famous redan green. This is an interesting one. I have played North Berwick twice, and both times it was quite downwind on this hole making it virtually impossible...yet a classic challenge nonetheless. The 16th is a short par 4 with a green that my caddy described as "...a set of breasts, and not an inviting set of breasts either." If you don't land your approach on, ahem, the correct breast, good luck. Phil Mickelson was leading Open qualifying here one year when he made a 9. Game over. #17 is a straightforward par 4 with an uphill blind approach and 18 is a miniature version of the Old Course, complete with a classic old clubhouse in the distance. This golf course is proof that golf courses should be designed and built with fun as the #1 objective.
North Berwick is not without some great stories as well. One of which involves a lighthouse seen off on an island in the distance as you are midway through the front nine. What is the significance? Well, the author of the famous "Treasure Island" is Robert Louis Stevenson. Young RL Stevenson and his parents spent a lot of time in North Berwick on holidays as a child because his father built many of the lighthouses in the area. The island upon which that lighthouse is situated is Fidra Island, the island used as his inspiration for Treasure Island. This is just one of the many fun facts told by your caddy around this great links. (PS -oh yah, make sure to get a caddy)
(the par 4 5th. Note the lighthouse in the distance!)
Let me end with saying that, in my personal opinion, courses ranked 75-100 are a complete crapshoot. The fact that courses such as Sunningdale New, The New Course at St Andrews, or Panmure do not make the list yet courses such as North Berwick or Highland Links do is completely arbitrary. There are hundreds of courses around the world that could occupy the 75-100 spots just as easily. Yet the fact remains that North Berwick's West Links is one of the most unique and entertaining courses one can play. It is an absolute must if you ever find yourself in and around Edinburgh.
Hit 'em well.
-MG
